A hairy love letter to Nigeria.
African Voices
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exploring the lives and passions of people who rarely open themselves up
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(CNN) -- A young woman stands against a crisp black
backdrop. The photographer walks forward and gently turns her away from
the camera. Today the focus is not on her face but on the delicate
architectural feat that sits atop her head. It seems to almost defy
gravity, with light radiating from the hair tower as it spirals upwards
in a conical shape.
Hairstyles have long been
popular fashion statements for Nigerian women. But over the years, the
intricate braiding and eye-catching sculptures have often reflected the
country's changing sociopolitical times as well. And for the last six
decades, one man made it his life's work to capture the complex
refashioning of his homeland.
In February, the renowned
artist J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere died at his home in Lagos aged 84. He left
behind a remarkable body of work, much of which is largely unknown
outside Nigeria.
But now, many of
Ojeikere's countrymen are putting in a renewed effort to celebrate the
life of the beloved artist -- through documentary films, exhibitions and
an impressive monograph of work, Nigeria is presenting J.D. 'Okhai
Ojeikere to the world one last time.
"He started taking images
of a nation that was in the throes of development [and] independence in
1960," explains Bisi Silva, the founder and director of the Centre for Contemporary Art, Lagos.
"We discovered oil, money... modern buildings were going up. So he
documented that process, that transition into a modernizing nation."
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A final wish for a departed friend
Over the last five years,
Silva has been working tirelessly to complete an extensive monograph on
Ojeikere. This has not been yet another project for the art curator --
Ojeikere was a close friend, and the duo had been collaborating on the
monograph up until his untimely passing in February.
"I had a very close relationship with 'Pa Ojeikere,' as we call him here," says Silva, who turned to crowdfunding platform Kickstarter to raise funds for publishing the book. "I used to speak to him at least once a week."
Silva recalls Ojeikere's
passion and enthusiasm for the project and, holding it close to her
heart, she says she's determined to finish what they had started
together.
"He was really dynamic,
really passionate about photography and there was so much to learn in
his archive. Over the last five years, we became friends. He was like a
father to me.
"It was just such a big shock that he passed away. That he wouldn't see the book he was extremely excited about."
Documenting independence
Born in a small rural
village in West Nigeria in 1930, Ojeikere would become one of Nigeria's
most celebrated artists. For over 60 years, the master photographer
fastidiously immersed himself in capturing his homeland, documenting
every facet of daily life. His many photographs would come together to
create a striking anthropological study of Nigeria.
"You're getting a sort of history of Nigeria at a very important, transitional period, just on the cusp of independence ...
Bisi Silva, founder of the Center for Contemporary Art, Lagos
Bisi Silva, founder of the Center for Contemporary Art, Lagos
The 1950s saw a young
Ojeikere searching for a vocation. Rejected by the army, it was an uncle
who inadvertently put him on a lifelong journey by suggesting
photography. Starting small, the untrained amateur would photograph
women in his village as they donned their Sunday best and headed to
church.
Later on, Ojeikere got a
job as a darkroom assistant at the Nigerian Ministry of Information.
When he wasn't working, he was often found at the local university,
snapping moments between students, staff and events on campus -- once
again capturing daily life on film. The country was moving toward a time
of social change and political upheaval and Ojeikere explored this
through his lens.
"You're getting a sort
of history of Nigeria at a very important, transitional period, just on
the cusp of independence," says Silva. "And just after independence [in
1960], when there is a feeling of euphoria, feeling of liberation, the
sense of 'now we can conquer the world, we can develop the nation; we
are free, we are independent.'
"And this all comes out
in the way in which individuals and people presented themselves. It's
like: 'Look at me. I'm fashionable, I'm modern, I'm confident, I'm
educated. I'm a professional.' All these images amount to a visual image
of Nigeria in the 50s, 60s and 70s."
Not just hair
Ojeikere's next job was
working for the national television station, a career move that enabled
him to rub shoulders with other creative minds. This is when he started
to take photographs with more artistic intent, explains Silva.
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"He started coming into
contact other artists, filmmakers, writers and that's why as he
developed, the artistic intent as opposed to the anthropological intent
began to develop. When we finally get to 'Hairstyles,' they are actually
done in a very specific manner. It wasn't someone on the street. It was
in a studio with a specific lighting, with a specific position."
The "Hairstyles" series,
for which he is so critically acclaimed, features over 1,000
photographs of Nigerian styles since 1954. But for Silva, his work
documenting traditional Nigerian headgear and the country's
architecture, as well as his studio portrait work, must be examined
alongside "Hairstyles" to fully comprehend Ojeikere's legacy.
The images communicate a
transition from the normal photographs depicting Africa, says Silva.
"The images we are used to seeing of Africa -- they gave a one
dimensional perspective of a race, of a nation, of a people. It's been a
herculean work to bring this publication together."
Final tributes
Silva's monograph is
just one tribute to Ojeikere. Nigerian filmmaker Tam Fiofori recently
released "J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere: Master Photographer," a documentary
capturing the final year of the artist's life.
Elsewhere, an exhibition
of "Hairstyles" is currently shown across the UK. Curated by Gillian
Fox, it is the first time audiences in the country are having the chance
to view Nigeria from this perspective.
"I think it was a love letter to his country. He used photography
which is a very modern medium to document these moments of social
change.
Gillian Fox, curator of the Hayward Touring exhibition of Ojeikere's "Hairstyles"
Gillian Fox, curator of the Hayward Touring exhibition of Ojeikere's "Hairstyles"
"As a Nigerian, he
wanted to document that moment in Nigeria when it was a time of colonial
rule changing over to democracy," says Fox. "He was keen in the wake of
modernization to capture something that was quite intrinsic to his
culture, his nation and he saw the rate of change that was happening and
he thought hairstyles were fascinating and an art form in their own
right," she continues.
"They were something that should be preserved because the thing about a hairstyle is that they are really ephemeral."
She adds: "I think it
was a love letter to his country. He used photography which is a very
modern medium to document these moments of social change."