Ukraine's refugees find solace in Poland, Europe's most homogenous society.


Hundred of thousands have fled to their neighbouring country since the current conflict began, with some taking jobs vacated by emigrants to the west
A class in the Greco-Catholic church in Warsaw.
A class for children following Sunday mass in the church of the Basilian Fathers, serving the Ukrainian community in Warsaw. Photograph: Matt Lutton/Boreal Collective

As sunlight streams through the windows of Warsaw’s Church of the Basilian Fathers, a priest in gold robes swings a clanking censer around the altar. He chants with a low intonation, and a choir in an upper gallery responds, their voices filling the airy church interior, which is dominated by huge oil paintings and numerous small icons of haloed saints.

The congregation is mostly made up of ethnic Ukrainians, members of a community that numbers hundreds of thousands and has been growing rapidly since the start of the conflict in eastern Ukraine.
Last year Poland issued 331,000 permits for short-term work to Ukrainians, up 50% on 2013, says Marta Jaroszewicz, a migration expert at the Centre For Eastern Studies (OSW), an independent Warsaw thinktank funded by the Polish government.
She estimates that there are now 300,000-400,000 Ukrainians in Poland, as many as twice the officially recognised number. In January and February, the number of residence applications by Ukrainians in the Mazovian voivodeship – the province which includes Warsaw – was up 180% on the same months of 2014.
The migrants have largely been welcomed, with some taking jobs vacated by Poles who have left for western Europe. But the numbers are a new phenomenon in a country more used to emigration than immigration.

Ukrainian newspapers for sale in the church after Sunday mass.
Ukrainian newspapers for sale in the church after Sunday mass. Photograph: Matt Lutton/Boreal Collective
Galyna, an elegantly dressed 42-year-old housekeeper from Ternopil in western Ukraine, stops to examine a church notice board. She has been in Warsaw for two years with her teenage daughter and son.
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“I’m here for my two years and I’m staying for my children,” she says. “This church is incredible, it’s of enormous importance for us. We can be with other Ukrainians, and even if we didn’t get on at home, here we are united and are brothers and sisters. It’s hard to be here when our friends are at home and things are so hard, but with help from God the sun will rise after the darkness.”
“We are seeing many more people since the war,” adds Katarzyna Sirocka, an ethnic-Ukrainian Polish citizen and head of the Association of Ukrainian Women in Poland. “Those lucky enough to have papers in order work here as cleaners, construction workers and drivers. But many well-educated people who were psychologists and musicians in Ukraine are doing ‘black work’ [working illegally] here.”
Many of the congregation are working-class migrants from western Ukraine fleeing not the war itself, but its devastating economic fallout. But at the nearby Ukrainian World centre established by the Open Dialogue Foundation, a Polish NGO, to support the community, refugees from war-torn eastern Ukraine gather to seek help.
The ruins of Donetsk airport. Many Ukrainians have left for Poland because of the destruction of war
The ruins of Donetsk airport. Many Ukrainians have left for Poland because of the destruction of war Photograph: Alexander Ermochenko/EPA
“War is the reason we left,” says Tetiana, 46, who left Luhansk for Warsaw, 1,000 miles away. “We lost our homes, our everything. The only way to survive was to go somewhere, and we decided to try to move to Poland. We want to stay here to try to live another life. When the situation in Ukraine improves, we will return – but we don’t actually have a place to return to as our house was destroyed.”
Ukrainian World was established in 2014 and receives 100 visitors a day, with increasing numbers arriving from eastern Ukraine.
“Those from the east are in the most difficulty,” says Mateusz Kramek, the office co-ordinator at Ukrainian World. “They don’t know Polish, don’t know Warsaw, and often ran from their homes with just a few bags.”
The centre provides practical help and humanitarian aid for Ukrainians, supplying donated clothes and food and assisting in applications for Polish visas and refugee status. There is a resident psychologist working in an upstairs room; outside, a girl waits for her appointment on a soggy sofa, while typing on a laptop.
About 70% of those coming to the centre are seeking work or places at universities, while 30% want to register as refugees, says Kramek. Some hope to stay in Poland only briefly, before moving on to the west.
An anti-Putin installation inside the Ukrainian World museum and community centre.
An anti-Putin installation inside the Ukrainian World museum and community centre. Photograph: Matt Lutton/Boreal Collective
The centre doubles as a home of political activity for supporting Ukraine, and regular meetings and events are held. There is a small “Library of Maidan” with Ukrainian books, and a museum consisting of a few cases of memorabilia from the Maidan – Kiev’s Independence Square, the focus of the uprising.
Photos of Maidan protesters and Ukrainian banners adorn the walls. A Ukrainian flag signed by government soldiers in eastern Ukraine hangs over a postbox for “letters of hope” to the front. In another room, a bizarre papier-mache model of Vladimir Putin as a Russian doll, complete with a Nazi tie, stands in a cage next to a model of one of the “little green men” – soldiers involved in the Russian seizure of Crimea.
Poland’s government has been one of the EU’s most vocal supporters of Ukraine and opponents of Russia’s actions. In this, it enjoys widespread support from the Polish electorate, and Poles donate generously to Ukrainian World, says Kramek. However, relations between Ukrainians and Poles have not always been so cordial, and memories of massacres and forced deportations during and after the second world war linger in some parts.
Kramek says that there are some “haters” who take to the organisation’s Facebook page to complain about Ukrainians, but there have been no reports of physical violence.
“It’s about 50/50 – one half help us and supports Ukraine, the other half doesn’t like it, and says that we should go back and stay,” says Bogdan Bak, a 29-year-old Ukrainian in jeans and a leather jacket working with three friends on one of the free computers at Ukrainian World. His friend Volodimir disagrees. His Polish landlord lets him rent a room for 500 złoty (£90) rather than the 600 złoty asking price.
A woman attends mass.
A woman attends mass. Photograph: Matt Lutton/Boreal Collective

Similarities in culture between Poland and western Ukraine in particular have generally made integration of Ukrainian migrants relatively straightforward. Poland’s economic growth ageing population and emigration levels had meant immigration was likely to have become an issue. But the recent influx of Ukrainians may trigger a debate that Polish politicians have previously avoided.
“Poland is one of the most homogenous societies in the EU. Only 0.2% of the population are foreigners,” says Jaroszewicz, of the OSW thinktank. “Public debate on migration is still focused on the issue of post-accession emigration of Poles to the UK and other EU locations. The Polish political elites did not pay too much attention to the issue of foreigners’ integration. But now it seems that it is happening.”

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Perhaps the most notable was King Hussein of Jordan. Continue reading the main story Find out more Matthew Teller presents Sandhurst and the Sheikhs, a Whistledown production for BBC Radio 4, on Wednesday 27 August 2014 at 11:00 BST It will be available on iPlayer shortly after broadcast Four reigning Arab monarchs are graduates of Sandhurst and its affiliated colleges - King Abdullah of Jordan, King Hamad of Bahrain, Sheikh Tamim, Emir of Qatar, and Sultan Qaboos of Oman. Past monarchs include Sheikh Saad, Emir of Kuwait, and Sheikh Hamad, Emir of Qatar. Sandhurst's links have continued from the time when Britain was the major colonial power in the Gulf. "One thing the British were excellent at was consolidating their rule through spectacle," says Habiba Hamid, former foreign policy strategist to the rulers of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. "Pomp, ceremony, displays of military might, shock and awe - they all originate from the British military relationship." Sheikh Hamad Bin Isa Al Khalifa, King Abdullah, Sultan Qaboos Sandhurst alumni: King Hamad of Bahrain, King Abdullah of Jordan and Sultan Qaboos of Oman It's a place where future leaders get to know each other, says Michael Stephens, deputy director of the Royal United Services Institute, Qatar. And Sandhurst gives the UK influence in the Gulf. "The [UK] gets the kind of attention from Gulf policy elites that countries of our size, like France and others, don't get. It gives us the ability to punch above our weight. "You have people who've spent time in Britain, they have… connections to their mates, their teachers. Familiarity in politics is very beneficial in the Gulf context." "For British people who are drifting around the world, as I did as a soldier," says Brigadier Peter Sincock, former defence attache to Saudi Arabia, "you find people who were at Sandhurst and you have an immediate rapport. I think that's very helpful, for example, in the field of military sales." 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In 2013 he was one of the key figures in the Egyptian military's removal of Islamist President Mohammed Morsi, now rewarded by a post in President Sisi's inner circle of advisers. In the late 1990s there were moves by the British government under Tony Blair to end Sandhurst's training of overseas cadets. Major-General Arthur Denaro, Middle East adviser to the defence secretary and commandant at Sandhurst in the late 1990s, describes the idea as part of the "ethical foreign policy" advocated by the late Robin Cook, then-foreign secretary. Tony Blair and Robin Cook Tony Blair and Robin Cook at one point planned to end Sandhurst's training of overseas cadets The funeral of King Hussein in 1999 appears to have scuppered the plan. "Coming to that funeral were the heads of state of almost every country in the world - and our prime minister was there, Tony Blair," says Major-General Denaro. "He happened to see me talking to heads of state - the Sultan of Brunei, the Sultan of Oman, the Bahrainis, the Saudis - and he said 'How do you know all these guys?' The answer was because they went to Sandhurst." Today, Sandhurst has reportedly trained more officer cadets from the UAE than from any other country bar the UK. The May 2014 intake included 72 overseas cadets, around 40% of whom were from the Middle East. "In the future," says Maryam al-Khawaja, acting president of the Bahrain Centre for Human Rights, "people will look back at how much Britain messed up in the [Middle East] because they wanted to sell more Typhoon jets to Bahrain, rather than stand behind the values of human rights and democracy." "It's one thing saying we're inculcating benign values, but that's not happening," says Habiba Hamid. Sandhurst is "a relic of the colonial past. They're not [teaching] the civic values we ought to find in democratically elected leaders." line Who else went to Sandhurst? 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